Day 21 Sunday

The day started with a trip to the good old Greek Catholic (Melkite ) Church. The 'patriarchal exarch' ... I think that's his title ... greeted visitors with a brief summary of the gospels in French and English before mass started, although it was hard to listen to as the locals were a little distracting at the same time. Mass itself was a combination of incense, numerous signs of the cross and everything sung including the readings. The priest too was doing all his priestly things behind a screen although if you were near the centre aisle you could see all through the door. Photos afterwards show you a church that had every inch of the walls and ceiling covered in iconic paintings.

Even this lower part of the wall that was painted to look like the curtains you have to cover parts of the wall it is useless to have paintings on.

After mass we entered the busy street at the Jaffa gate - the entrance to the Jewish quarter ... and boy was it busy.

Interestingly enough the road through the Muslim souk that leads directly to the Western Wall had restricted access and soldiers were indicating to all to go through another entrance. Here is a soldier convincing an Orthodox Jew to go another way. Can you see the automatic weapons that each soldiers Cary's and holds on to ready to use at any moment. These soldiers were pretty relaxed though. I think they were just wanting the souk to be less crowded, particularly with the Jewish people.

Down in the Jewish Quarter it was a party atmosphere as we are in the middle of Sukkot, the Jewish festival of tabernacles. The canvas tent like construction you can see here are everywhere and are meant to be the place Jewish people spend time in to help them remember the time they spent in the desert in Moses' day. Although they were everywhere, I didn't see many being used ... Some for people eating perhaps but that's about all.

Lunch was not provided at Ecce Homo today so a few of us went to the Austrian Hospice for a restaurant type meal. It was delicious.

After lunch, three of us went out of the Old City on an adventure to the Israeli Museum. Despite it only being 2 km away we decided to go by taxi so that we didn't get lost and we could maximise our time there. Boy was that a mistake. We ended up going in the opposite direction to avoid traffic issue ... There were some issues to be fair as the Sukkot party time was doubly popular in New Jerusalem.

 ... a five minute 25 shekel ride became a 20 minute 65 shekel round trip.

The museum was spectacular though, with such features as a large scale model of Jerusalem during Jesus's time ... I mean the second temple period.

The Dead Sea scrolls exhibition - no photos allowed, and the Herod exhibition - ditto. Mark, one of my Tassie pilgrim friends was particularly ropable as he wanted his 45th ( estimate only) movie of the trip to be a Herod special and wasn't allowed.

Check out this photo, modelled on deVinci's Last Supper. The thought was Israeli soldier's never know when their last supper may be.

There was also a famous Botticelli masterpiece "the Annunciation" Mount Tabor - the place we were a couple of days ago was the mountain behind the angel Gabriel.

Litter is a big problem even here in the Israeli museum too it seems.

The night time was the highlight of the day though when we heard from Dr Samah Jabr, a brave and articulate Muslim psychiatrist, who shared with us here view of the "complex reality of Palestine Israel." It is complex and, for many of us who had been touched by the poverty and oppression of the Palestinian people in Hebron, it seemed hopeless and frustrating that these people do not stand up for their rights. What I learnt from this patient and idealistic lady was that Palestinians are a resilient people and many are showing resistance to the Israeli occupation by remaining in the old city, surviving as best they can with pride and patience waiting for the tide to change. Acts of violence or revolution from these people are only knee jerk reactions by individuals, although too often the cost is paid borne by all. Her views were controversial and could get her into serious trouble if expressed publicly and yet she has taken the opportunity to express her views or " tell the truth ... Be a witness to the truth " as she expressed it by writing articles that have been published in world newspapers , such as the Washington Post, in the past. She was a great picture and it certainly helped me continue to develop a clearer picture of what is going on in this place.

Getting to sleep this night was not easy. Though the temperature here seems to be cooler. I forgot to mention on Saturday night , it rained ... It actually rained ... For half an or so too. Amazing.

13022 ... largely from the walk back from the museum ... No more taxis for me.