Days 33 and 34 - London - Melbourne.

Tommi, Aurelia, Clare and Tancredi in London

Days 33 and 34. Travelling London - Melbourne

Although this was two days of travelling, I thought it was worth recording the stories of a few people I met in my final hours OS. Together with some of my favourite shots.

Sukun and Krishnan in Singapore

Gordon, Roane and Laura in Whitby, UK

Sandra was sitting next to me on my left on the 13 hour trip to Singapore. Her TV screen didn't seem to work and the poor lady had to spend the whole time reading or just sitting. I couldn't fix it for her and when she asked for the hostess' help she failed to deliver. I offered to swap spots after I had watched 5 of the 6 hour long episodes of War and Peace but she declined. Instead we talked for the last 3 hours of the trip about her family and her travels overseas. A sad life but she was pretty up beat. She came from Cornwall only a few miles from the location where the Poldark series had been and was being filmed.

Sheila and Bob in Moffat, Scotland

With Rose from Germany

She had a husband who tragically could barely walk from a simple injury years before, a pregnant daughter who was a doctor who had worked in many places overseas in a voluntary capacity and a son who had died as a young adult  - surprisingly for me, I didn't pry any further. But he was in a BBC production of Twelfth Night a number of years before (1996 actually) where he'd been a body double for famous actors such as Ben Kingsley and Helena Bodham Carter in Harry Potter movies. Sandra was going on a tour of New Zealand. The lady on the other side of me was going to and although I didn't chat to her much, we did get on and if made the long journey go quickly.

Andy, Louis and I on the Camino

The second trip from Singapore to Melbourne was only 6 and a half hours, that also wrong quickly because of the 24 year old Hobart Medical student called Clive. He was good to talk to as well about footy and Studying Medicine and working out Ex-SPC students we both knew. He was returning from a three month exchange in Norway where he was able to spend time with his Norwegian girlfriend. Long term relationships like this do amaze me.

Hannah VG and I in Florence

Lucy in Brighton ,UK

At Melbourne airport, waiting at the pick up spot out front for Jasz and Lily who'd kindly offered to pick me up, I met a guy who had just been up to the tip - he said. I was puzzled about why this needed a plane ride but he meant the tip of Australia. He was interested in the Camino experience I'd had and offered to give me a lift to wherever - of I was able to cancel my lift - which was very generous of him. It helped me realise that kindness and friendliness can be found just as easily here in Australia as on the Camino or on the Moors of England, in planes across continents or on lonely paths up to secluded monasteries. Just as Luke had observed at my school fair well. All you need to do is give people time and your undivided attention to be able to see it. A lesson I hope to continue to use in my life now I'm back.

Day 32 - Brighton - London - Thursday 13th October

Went for a walk along the Brighton promenade this morning. Surprised by the cleanliness of the beach front - particularly after experiencing the Ostia beach in Rome. But also the stone instead of sand was a bit strange - clean but strange  - and very hard to walk on.

There were sheltered seats regularly along this well used promenade that had homeless men sleeping on each one. At least a dozen on this stretch with cyclists, runners, walkers, dogs moving past at regular intervals. It felt weird and sad.

A leisurely morning, as I had no plans, except head up to London at some stage. I walked again back to the Brighton station checking out the shops in this really nice town. No wonder so many people like to live here. Lucy said the rental prices are similar to the expensive London market however a much nicer place to live I fancy, if you didn't mind the time and expense of commuting to London - which many do apparently.

When the express arrived at Victoria Station, with a bit of help from Google, I walked to my next hotel in Paddington, through the gorgeous Hyde Park. So big a green space in the city. With some delightful scenes of squirrels and ducks and people enjoying the tranquil nature of this place.

The Metro Hotel in Paddington was right in the middle of things and my small single room with a shared bathroom up the stairs and it's balcony that looked on to the street, was just the place I hoped for to end my OS holiday. I decided to go to Les Mis at West End that night and so, after booking a cheap seat, I was able to find a charity shop that was able to deck me out in suitable attire for the night. Perfect.

The show was magnificent. My seat required a lot of leaning forward, as the website had advised me before I bought it, but I didn't mind. I met this lovely woman from Norway who was watching the show for the 40th time.  Usually she watched it here at the Queen’s Theatre, making the trip over at least twice a year on average I worked out. Amazing.

The trip home at 11pm on the underground was also awesome. It was then I realised how impressive the underground was. It was just like the board game that Pauline had brought with her so many years ago that my siblings and I used to love playing. I recently was able to play it again when Lily's friend, Eddie Laverack, brought it over on Lily's birthday earlier this year.

It was hard to get to sleep this night as it was noisy on the street, hot in the room and an early rise time (5:30) meant it was hard to rest worrying about sleeping through the alarm.

Day 31 - Roma 4 - Brighton - October 12

Day 31 - Roma - Brighton UK

Starting this blog in the Queens Theatre waiting for the show to begin. You'll have to read tomorrow's entry to read what I'm seeing.

Yesterday started off a bit more relaxed as I found out last night, instead of an hour + train ride into the city and out again there was a shuttle leaving from Lido station directly to the airport. So I went for a walk along the promenade next to the beach. A pleasant walk that time in the morning but this certainly is a gold mine of a beach that has been let go. It's like the Italians don't care.

The Italian beach at Ostia

A bit of a rush when I got back with breakfast in a big dining hall by myself, followed by shower, collecting my things strewn across the large room and packing my bag. I had become quite good at stuffing my daypack into my blue back pack so I only had one to carry. It weighed only around twelve kgs together which was reasonable on the Camino and easier to manage on public transport as well.

Lius Roma Hostel - from the back

The bus, the airport, the flight to the UK all went smoothly. I was hoping for a window seat but was given an aisle so I was resigned to that until when I got on the plane the couple in the seats next time asked me if I wanted the window - they preferred to be able to get out easier. A well-travelled British couple who rather surprisingly admitted they preferred to only go to English speaking countries and had an alarming level of intolerance for the Spanish air hostess -  I was so glad they swapped with me because it was a clear day and I was able to see the Italian coastline, the Swiss Alps and a great view of the South English countryside. I took photos like an unashamed tourist.

A View of the Swiss Alps

I'm sure this jet only just missed us!

The Gatwick airport was great, quiet and easy to get to the station nearby on a free monorail. Google Maps suggested a twenty minute walk was best but I went around in a circle that ended up at the previously undiscovered free shuttle service. Google is not always right.

The Gatwick Express got me down to Brighton in only about 20 minutes with no stops. I found out too late about the free wifi (and the phone charging point) on the train and my phone was near dead so the email from niece Lucy Morris was read too late. She was going to my hostel directly by bike and I had arrived at Brighton at the same time. I wasn't sure how to get to the hostel and should have taken a taxi in hindsight but in the end I walked and it took 40 minutes. Meanwhile Lucy was trying to find me and went to the station before finally I was able to plug in my phone at the hostel- which I thankfully found without too much trouble- and I was able to contact Lucy again. " Stay there!" Lucy commanded and I was happy because my second storey room had a view of the beach and the street and I was able to sit at my window and have a cup of tea looking out the window as I waited.

Smart Sea at Brighton. My window was just above the entrance 

Smart Sea View Brighton 9-12 St Catherine's Terrace, Hove. I recommend it - being the new Trip Advisor expert

Lucy Morris and her dog - whose name escapes me as I write this a month later.

It was great to see Lucy again. Probably around ten years since I had seen her, but she was friendly, delightful company and very accommodating for her long lost uncle, particularly as it was a busy night for her. We had Fresh Hake and Chips together and after her Italian class I walked up to her house, walked the dog to the pub and had a beer together.

Having a pint with Lucy

"This is England, Peter," she said and the dog came into the pub with us - much to the delight of the other patrons. We shared stories over a pint and then later she drove me back to the hostel in her cool VW combi camper van- a long held dream of hers.

Lucy and her Combi Camper

Day 30 - Roma 3 - Tuesday 11th October.

Day 30 - Roma 3 - October 11th

Arnie's birthday. This was the second of my children's birthdays I missed as April's was the week before when I was in the Camino. I had contacted Arnie the night before just before she headed off to school and had a good chat to her on FaceTime this morning before she went off with Jane and the girls for tea. I was glad. I've been eating out all month and it hit home how much a treat that is when we are at home.

Walked to the Lido Centro railway station, stopping half way at the fruit shop to buy some fruit as I did the day before- those grapes yesterday really sustained me. The graffiti mobile trip into town went quickly. Here in London at the moment, I read in the paper yesterday that one train was abruptly taken out of service in the middle of its run because of a piece of sexually inappropriate graffiti. I guess they do take notice.

I caught a few other connecting trains until I'd travelled around the city underground. Roma's rail system is just as efficient as London's I found - just not as extensive or interactive. The trains seemed wider though - if that's possible.

I had booked a tour for the three parts of the Vatican I'd saved to see today which I was very glad about. The queue for the museum was quite long and although we still had to wait a bit, it was nowhere near as long. Half an hour instead of 2-3 hours I believe. It was also nice to have company and someone talking to you in your ear the whole time about interesting stuff.

The museums was first. There were more than collection as rich popes added to existing collections as they were elected. I'm not sure how I feel about all the church's wealth and opulence. I guess though it was similar the Medici's wealth in Florence and these guys were kings as well as church heads. At least our papa now is much humbler than these popes of a past era.

With the large number of people moving through the hallways  I felt a bit like cattle being herded into the milking shed - the Sistine Chapel - and found myself wanting to be there much quicker than we were. I did enjoy the map section

and learning a bit more about the tapestries. Also about Michelangelo. His history was fascinating and our guide painted the picture if his development as an artist and the works in the Vatican that influenced him.

The chapel itself was awe- inspiring however once again - too many people in there to really enjoy it. The guards who kept on calling out on the PA in there "Silenzio ... No photo... No video." Kept me amused though. As did those people who were trying to take sneaky photos, protected by the people they were with. Some people just can't help themselves. I've realised on this trip how there is a balance that needs to be struck between recording your memories with a camera, taking photos artistically and the important need to put the camera away and be in the present. It is a decision that needs to be made every time the button is pushed. I must admit though it has been a struggle for me.

The art work in the chapel was spectacular I must admit and more creative by far than any work in churches i had seen to date. I really wanted to buy a jigsaw puzzle to look at and appreciate the work more. I missed the chance in the cattle run unfortunately and never had the opportunity again.

The best part of the tour was the end though. St Peter's Basillica. The biggest church in the world. According to the guide and my memory, it is 220 metres from the back of the church to the altar, over 100 metres wide and can fit 60,000 people - I'll have to check that later. It doesn't seem right. The square out the front can hold 150,000 people she said ... And it was set up for an outdoor mass and there were a lot of seats. A Michelangelo sculpture was particularly impressive here

As was the crypt of past popes. Some didn't hold the job very long I noticed. I stood near the tomb of St Peter - sounded pretty legitimate too - unlike a lot of Jesus' places in the Holy Land.

When the tour was finished I went for a wander. It was dreary outside - a bit of rain and I was ether tired. Tried to find. Place to eat but nothing interested me. Went to the place called  the Castle of Angels. Built a long time ago - vague of me I know - to defend the Vatican area I think. Luck for my Roma card which allowed me to skip the queue and pay half price .... Because it wasn't really worth it as a museum - it did have a good vantage point to see the whole city ... which I guess was worth the 5€

I wandered some more but I was very hungry. It was around 3:30 so I decided to stop at a restaurant for a meal that would do for both lunch and tea. A pizza. It wasn't the friendliest of places and service was poor. I wished I'd waited a bit longer and bought some fresh pasta for 5€ like Hannah bought for us uni Florence. Local knowledge you see.

After this more wandering a. Found a nicer fountain than the Trevi in my opinion with hardly any one around it. Bought an ice cream, stupidly perhaps as it was starting to rain a little. I discovered of the map if I found and followed the river, I would eventually get to where I wanted.

Success and what's beautiful walk it was. Away from the crowds.

Too bad I didn't count on the storm. Boy did get wet. And I was so pigheaded that I kept walking. By the time I for to the station it had toned right done. I should have waited. My pants were dripping wet and I found out later my charger was in the bag and when I checked out later inwardly short circuited the hostel. The cool guy sitting next to me in the train got more than he bargained for when he was forced to lean up against me. He thought he'd missed our getting wet.

That night I was in my room by myself which was good because I'd strangers my wet clothes on all the bed ends.

Tea was dip and crackers. It was enough. The receptionist was very helpful. He tried recharging my phone from his computer but by 10:30 it was still only half charged. I was going to be in trouble the next day - I correctly guessed.

Day 29. - Roma 2 - Monday October 10

Day 29.  Roma 2 Monday October 10

The day began on the middle of the night really when the only other guest in my 6 bed dorm arrived trying to get into the room. The Italian locks can be quite tricky. 2:30 am - just arrived in the ferry was all the info I got from him. He promptly went to sleep and I was left awake😳

Breakfast was provided at this quiet establishment but I had to get the lady away from reception to help get things together. I really think I was one of only 6 who stayed last night and four of those were a young family.

Over breakfast I tried to decide what to see and after some research I discovered that Roma had similar things to offer as London did for a person like me. Hop on hop off bus tours and a Roma pass that got me a lit of cool bargains. So off I went to the city, more confident in what I was about to do than I was last night. First stop Colosseum and I'd go from there.

The train trip was interesting. I saw three dogs that were travelling with their owners. The tincy wincy one next to me sat quite still the whole trip and followed his master off the train - all without a lead. The second thing I noticed was the whole train was covered in graffiti art. Almost as if it was commissioned.

The colosseum was big. Huge. Colossal. I wandered around the growing queues wondering how I could avoid them. Did I really want to go in. I eventually found a place that was selling the Roma Pass which gave me free entry to the first place I went to as well as allowed me to join the very short queue. It only took 30 minutes to get in. No drinks allowed. And bags through a scanner. Inside was brilliant... Although crowded. I let the photos that will eventually go here do the talking.

After this I confidently set off walking but soon got lost. Google maps told me I was heading in the complete wrong direction. I had been tossing up whether to buy the hop on hop off bus tour - there were 6 buses to choose from and spruikers everywhere - so in the end I allowed one guy to talk me into it. And on the bus I went.

I think I used it well. I got off to check out Michaelangelo's steps and one of the SantaMaria basilicas ( there are a few) then after a spot of pasta for lunch I was back on again, resisted getting off at the Vatican - that's tomorrow - and instead got off to check out the Trevi fountain. Too many people for my liking. So I bought an ice cream and spent time being one of the few people not spending all their time behind their phones/cameras. I did take some pics though I cannot tell too big a lie.

Back on again for a part of the trip that took too long and spent 15 outside the Termini - main train station - I don't know why. I was starting to regret this bus ticket thing although it did allow me to see a whole lot more of the city than I would have seen on foot.

I got off again back at the Colosseum and went the other way. It was 4:30 by the and the wasn't a line for the Forum. Little did I realise how big this was. I'm not sure if it was free to get in but the Roma Card was scanned and in I went. This place was awesome. I really had a sense of this place 2000 years ago. Ruins yes but so many explanations I could just see it. I also went crazy with the camera as the late afternoon light and rain clouds combined with the ruins made for some arty shots.

After this I went cruising with the crowd and ended up at the REAL Michaelangelo steps and they lead up to .... The museum. It was 5:30 and closing time was 7:30 so I took the opportunity to explore do many sculptures and Roman heads whilst the crowds were thin. Much preferred time. And great fun.

Lost again after that. It was dark and I needed to consult google again because the map was getting too hard to read. Found my way then and half way back to the station I stopped for tea at a pizzeria.

Eventually found my way back to the hostel at 9 o'clock - even though I promised myself to be home before dark. It was ok though and I am so glad I had such an awesome day in Roma.

Day 28 - Assisi 3 - Roma 1 - Sunday 9th October.

Day 28 - Assisi 3 - Roma 1

Started the day with Mass in the mist. It was meant to be in English but I was a little disappointed when it was in .... American. We learnt which states each of the seven priests were from. I learnt how expressive these Americans can be when they give their response - Their hands were up often I must say. I witnessed a recommitment ceremony which was a first. We learnt a bit more about Thanksgiving in the sermon. And at the end of mass the priest said how glad he was to share this mass with people from the States. I felt like putting my hand up and saying excuse me but I'm here as well but I was afraid the others would all put up their hands and say A- men. That would have been too much to bear.

I caught a bus out of Assisi as people were streaming in by foot - carrying peace flags. Today was a big day for Assisi as a destination for a peace walk obviously but unfortunately - or fortunately , I'm not sure which - I was going in the opposite direction. The train ride was fastish but I was disappointed not to have a PowerPoint like last time and I paid the extra 5€ for first class too. 15€ in total for a 2 hour+ train ride was still pretty good I thought. I took a 12:34 shot on the train but it wasn't very exciting.

I changed trains twice on this journey and ended up on the beach. In Rome but not in Rome. Probably 40 minutes out.

Not sure about the neighbourhood though. A lot of tall security fences and security locks as well as graffiti and rubbish. I think I'll make sure I get inside before it's too sark. I don't feel to safe here.

After putting some washing on, I wandered down to the beach to find I was standing in a section of beach called "free beach".  I wasn't sure if this referred to what you could wear - as there was some evidence of this interpretation. Or free because there was no cost. Or maybe it was that you were free to behave as you wished - because by the dancing by the semi clad woman with the man playing the von goes, this would suggest a correct interpretation. Or you were free to move about - however it was sectioned off - as it was across the whole length both ways. As it turned out, it referred to the fact that it was open to anyone. Other sections were allocated to different resorts on the beach road behind. Needless to say my hostel " resort" had no such allocation.

The beach on this Sunday afternoon reminded me a little of Whitby - see first week in UK - a lot if people down at the only beach available to them , enjoying the weather and relaxed atmosphere. I found I was walking faster than atone else.... Which was odd because I didn't know where i was going.

I returned the hostel and spoke for a while to Aprilonthe early hours of Aus. as my washing was in the dryer. I missed the sun going down over the water but hopefully I went the next two nights. Caught the aftermath though it was beautiful.

After getting advice from the people at reception, iignoredthatBd ended upstairs Spanish restaurant having another go at Pulpa ( octopus) but I read a tapas only and not fulfilling  enough for someone who missed lunch.  So I ordered some Calamari as well. Writing blogs at tea has become the norm I'm afraid to say. I don't really enjoy eating  alone not just at my table ... No one else eating here.

Back to the Litus Roma Hostel soon where I hope there will beat few more people to talk to.  At the moment the odds a number about 6;1 and that one. Ise. I may have a six bed dorm to myself yet.

Quiet night I guess - maybe after an ice cream ... And after I finish my titto. 😊 half a litre is al ittle too much I think.

Ah someone else has arrived but time to go.

Day 27 - Assisi 2 - Saturday 8th October

Day 27 - Assisi 2 - Saturday 9th October

Breakfast at 8am - toast and something resembling "coffee with milk" then I was off investigating. At St Francis's Basillica I experienced another Italian mass before buying a book about St Francis in the church shop. Mum would have been proud of me. I sat in the pews and read, surrounded by the images the story was describing.
Sorry- no photos, no videos allowed in the churches here , as we were constantly reminded over the PA. As well as ... "Shhhhh. Silenzio!"which took away from the  peace and silenzio- succeeding in dulling the noise for a little while each time.

By the time I'd walked through the main piazza and found the Cathedral of St Clare, it was closed for lunch. Another church for Saint ... Someone was open though and exposed some ancient Rpman footings that reminded my a lot of Jerusalem.

I gave some of my money to the beggar at the door, inspired by the book I was reading. Then set off for a four km walk up the hill to the monastery dedicated to St Francis and run by Franciscan Monks. I heard it was silenzio all the way up there and thought perhaps no food as well so I ought a pork panini along the way to eat at the first seat on the way up. Finally found one in a peaceful spot near the top.

After finishing lunch I went a little way further and came across three people having a picnic of their own. I greeted them on Italian and they stopped me and offered me some Vino. How kind .. So I started chatting to them , drank their wine that the father had made, ate some pork panini, pork the father had killed and prepared himself, had some apple cake cooked by the adult daughter ( eggs from the family's chickens ) and was genuinely spoiled. We struggled to communicate - the daughter spoke a little English - they were from Naples ( Napoli ) and were on a day trip. How blessed was I to come across such a generous and welcoming family. We finished his bottle of wine and drank some of the mother's ( I think) liquor made from some brown round fruit from her garden we couldn't quite communicate it's English name. The  offered me a lift to the top but I joked that after all that drinking I couldn't really trust his driving. We laughed. I did feel joyous.

The monastery at the top was quite beautiful, tranquil.  But strangely I felt I had already received the blessing this day trip was meant to give me.

Ion returning to Assisi I first went up to the Castle above this city. I couldn't afford the entry fee as I had given away my last 5€  But the view was just as glorious without being at the very top.

A visit to St Clare's was next and I queued up to see what looked like a mummified corpse of the saint I still only knew a bit about. Some clothing relics were interesting here as well.

A storm was brewing over the town and I caught some impressive photos of it over St Francis'. Then the rain and lightening came. I say watching it and typing from a window at the B&B

Tea was much better tonight. Pizza at the pizzeria across the road from last night.

Back at the B&B I met the people in the other room on my floor. An older Italian woman - Who spoke a little English - and her husband who only could speak through his wife - who came from a village near the Swiss border called Como. They had just recently started travelling together as the husband didn't like to travel earlier on in their marriage. They were continuing on to ... Guess where ... Naples, then on to an island off there to " relax" said the husband.

Once again I enjoyed this conversation with Italians and wished I spoke more.

It was good to catch up with my brother Michael last night on WhatsApp and started thinking more and more how this trip is nearly at an end. Four weeks down now and only one week to go 😔 The truth is I am looking forward to home.

Day 26 - Florence 3 - Assisi 1

Day 26 - Florence 3 - Assisi 1

Friday 7th October

Started the morning off with  a trip to the Uffizi Gallery - the biggest ... sorry oldest Gallery in the world as it is made up largely of the Medici's own collection that they would show off to other important people who visited them. The filthy rich ... but what a collection. A lot of holy art. Madonnas with child accompanied by random saints either side. By the time I'd finished the first forty rooms or so I was feeling rather holy myself ... Thus this picture -I hope this works. I've lost wifi. Hang on I'll go down the spiral staircase.


I think that did work Yah! It's been a while since I've had photos.

This next photo shows that Medici corridor I was talking about in Florence 1

You might recognise this famous painting of Venus...

But may be puzzled like me what this boy is doing. A pretty good statue but not as good as David. Nothing stands up to David anymore. 😊

I realise now the photos didn't work. So I'll just carry on with my thoughts and hopefully later photos will be inserted. I'm on the train to Roma now. Sunday. My first class ticket did not include power nor internet , as I'd hoped. Never mind.

So after the Uffizi I must admit I was quite exhausted. I took a break at the Krishnans. Lunch
Across the road. Then goodbyes and escorted by Hannah off to the railway station. I pick up a few more biscuits I'd bought yesterday near the market to noble on the train. Said goodbye to Hannah then onto the not-so-very fast train to Assisi I went.

At Assisi bus stop I met an Australian couple, Neale and Shelley who were spending the weekend in Assisi and meeting their son there. I correctly guessed the state they were from merely by inspecting their clothing. Wearing jumpers so ... NSW. What a smartarse/clever cookie I am. I also bumped into Caroleena, the Argentinian girl from the "Palace", she had been at the Uffizi as well in the morning, missing the earlier train because the gallery had taken so long. We had only met and talked for a relatively short time but she have me a present- an Argentinian key tag - which was sweet of her. We parted ways at Assisi proper, ie up the hill.

It was a short walk to the B&B and then back down to the St Francis's Basillica. Impressive church- it has lower and an upper sections different churches covered in paintings telling the story of St Francis, centuries old. I felt I didn't know enough about this fellow so I promised myself I would look into it tomorrow. After visiting St Francis' tomb I was ushered out by the guards.

 I forget to mention I was questioned on the way in by an Italian soldier armed with what could easily be mistaken for a toy machine gun. "Any knife", I was asked. I gave him a moments hesitation as I tried to remember the Italian word for "no". Luckily I didn't say "Cie".

Tea this first night was interesting. I didn't venture too far from the accommodation so after checking out menus I finally settled on a 10€ "tentestra" (tourist?? I may have misspelt it ) meal at a restaurant   that had no one else eating there. I was confused especially when the lady behind the counter took some time to look up at me from what she was doing - it looked like gambling on her iPad. When she finally did I knew by her age I was in trouble. She didn't seem to understand me even though I was pointing to the item on th menu on the wall and tried to pronounce it. She called someone from the kitchen who seemed similarly confused. I was about to leave when the chef, who'd made a phone call, indicated to stay and soon after this a boy with limited English came in and looked after me. The meal was nice and the glass of wine was very generous so I returned to my B&B content for the day.
I turned in early as there was no one else around on my floor - only one other room - and finished reading the book I bought when leaving the UK.

Day 25 - Florence 2 -Thursday 6th October

Day 25 - Florence 2

Thursday 6th October.

I wish I hadn't left this so long. Things are happening here in Assisi and I am writing about two days ago. So I'll try to be brief.

Woke early and left the Palace ( Emerald palace ) at 7am. Two bodies in the beds next to me. Not sure if male or female even. Visited the duomo in the side entrance. For prayer only.  So I went to an Italian mass and glanced up at the magnificent Dome from the inside.

Met Hannah, Sukun and Krishnan on the way to the Accademia where they keep Michelangelo's "David" and boy was it impressive. I kept walking away from it then to turning around and taking another picture. I couldn't believe how impressive it was. Fr Richard was right. And photos do not do it justice.

I accidently lost S&K after this and returned to Hannah's ( who didn't come into the museum with us ) to get her to pass on a message. Apparently they were waiting a long time for me who him rather embarrassed about. I went off to investigate the Piazza San Croce with its statue of Dante - from here and important for the history of Italy and the new movie previously mentioned -

- then the Piazza della Signoria, with a lot of cool statues - and outside Galileo's Museum, a clever  sundial - probably an hour and a half early for it to work properly.

With Hannah leading the way we went up the market near my place - a lot of leather sold at twice the price for the tourists hannah said. Then the food market where we had a fantastic plate if fresh pasta cooked in the shop of the market. Delicious and marvellous to watch how they made it as well.

After lunch we took a bus up to the Piazzale Michelangelo to look at a view of the whole city. The Duomo dominating as I said in yesterday's blog. An ice cream ... Yum ... Then we went for a bus trip or two up to Vaaaant's workplace - the Observatory as he works as a sound astronomer - even better view from up there and we were shown an 150 year old telescope.

The bus trip back was fun because the bus was tiny ...

And we had a closer look at the Roman wall that once protected the city.

The ladies got back early and cooked a delicious fried rice. I was impressed to see Hannah cook some bread- something she dies regularly now - in fact it was great to see how well they live in their cosy fourth floor apartment only 2 minutes walk from the Duomo - you can almost touch it out their window.

When I returned to the Palace I finally met one of the other occupants of my room. A young Argentinian girl who spoke English reasonably well.  She too had come from Venice and was off to Assisi the next day like me. We talked for some time about studying Medicine in Argentina and having difficulty with Catalonian Spanish in Barcelona where she was doing a spell in the hospital there previous to her travelling in Italy. She was meeting her boyfriend in Roma after Assisi. We had a good chat until after midnight. The other person sleeping in between us returned after 1:30 I heard ... But  I still wasn't sure if she / he was a girl or boy even.

Day 24 - Venice 3 - Florence 1

VENICE 3

I woke early and hopped out of bed - very quickly and quietly I might add... Only to find it was my turn to struggle with the front door. I contacted the owner who told me to ask for another guest to help. So I had to wake them after all.

Finding a nice place to have breakfast proved harder today. I found a place eventually with an older woman who educated me rather forcefully - by banging repeatedly on the counter - that you must not sit down unless you pay extra - and I had already paid.
I went to use this places' toilet too but it was squatting only and I wasn't game.

I spent a good couple of hours wandering around Venice admiring the shops and the streets, getting lost and working out where I was. So long as you have a vague idea where the Grand Canal is and a good sense of where San Marco Piazza is - you'll be fine, I found.

When I returned to my flat I found two of the four guests I shared a room with were still asleep or in bed. "You're in Venice guys,"I thought - but each to their own I guess. I packed early and hoped my 24 hour ferry ticket would still have some minutes left. Lucky for me, it did ( it shouldn't have had mind you) and I caught a different ferry, my fifth, I think, back to the train station. I took what I thought could be a daily event from now on... A 12:34pm photo of where I was and funnily enough I received a What's App photo from the Melbourne tribe... JJL&A ... Taken at the same time coincidently.

By the way, I'm typing this sitting at my Assisi window watching an awesome storm.

The train ticket I had bought the day before was a very fast train. For 39€ I was able to buy a first class ticket on a Italo train. It was exciting and worth the money. 300km/hr we reached at one stage. The service was a bit slack though. Like on a plane they offered drinks and things for free. When I asked for a cappuccino all I got was a cup of hot water and some Uht milk. Others around were getting piping hot brewed coffee because they didn't want milk. When I looked at her quizzically she realised I was missing something so she gave me a tube of instant coffee. I decided then and there it was espresso coffee for my from now on in Italy. ( I write this now as I'm drinking my instant cappuccino in my B&B in Assisi )


FLORENCE 1

I arrived in Florence at around 3pm and was greeted by Hannah and Vaasant Krishnan who are living in Florence at the moment (and they were the main reason I was making this stop over really). It was a warm welcome and they escorted me back firstly to my accomodation - The Empire Palace - a hostel right next to the Saint Laurence church - this is the view out the window

Then they walked me to their place ... But before we got there I was blown away by the Duomo

It was huge and I was to discover the third biggest cathedral in the world. It dominates the landscape from wherever you look and took ages to even walk around. 16€ it was going to cost to climb it ... Plus the queuing ... Which I have an aversion to. So other plans were starting to form.

I met Sukun and Krishnan, Vaasant's parents once again - they were visiting H&V for a month less a week for a visit to London in between. They were great hosts to me on Day 1 in Singapore and so it was great to see them again.

We went for a bit of a wander in town before heading across the Arno - I think that is how you spell it - and up to San Spirito Plazza for tea. The town was a buzz, as the cast of 'Inferno' was in town for the premiere here on the weekend. I'll have to try and catch it here in Europe, as there is no guarantee it will be on in Launceston when I return.

The sunset over the Arno was beautiful and many were out on the Pointe Vecchio ( the main bridge) to watch it. I loved the story of the Medici family's disdain for the peasants in the town - they built a corridor over this bridge and up the road to avoid having to associate with them on the way back from the Uffizi ( the office) to their residence ( Pitti Palace) - not much "pity" if you ask me.

Today also this bridge had many people selling their own paintings on the street, only to pick them up and walk around hiding them behind their backs as the police wandered through. When the police were gone, they set their makeshift "stalls" again.

Great meal. All you can eat "Appetisers" and a wine for 8€. Then we wandered back to H&Vs and eventually home for me. I was in a 3 bed room with the single beds awful close - an ensuite for the three of us too. When I went to bed 11 pm the other two hadn't arrived. I woke when the middle person did and said hello but no response. I didn't hear the other person arrive. It was weird sleeping so close to people without knowing who they were.

So - a long entry but a big eventful day. Tomorrow ....  A whole day of Florence.

Day 23 - Italy Day 2 - Venice day 2

Woke fairly early ... Earlier than two of the guests in my room. One girl woke earlier but couldn't seem to get out using the poor replica keys cut for this place - I stayed in bed for a while conscious of my big day yesterday. Eventually I made it out of the flat and headed away to the left.

I was surprised to find a large crowd of people walking along an area near a large body of water surrounded by ancient buildings. It was awesome but not the narrow canals I saw last night.



I started to explore. The ferry stops near where I entered were small but effective docks where small low lying ferries dropped off and picked up passengers, then leaving again with a minimum of fuss. I was impressed.

After searching for ages to buy a relatively cheap breakfast - you guessed it ... Coffee and croissant - I discovered a 20€ ticket would allow me to take unlimited ferries all day long. So I bought one and a map then caught the first ferry out of there, not caring where it went. I mean, I was exploring Venetian canals, right. Wrong. I'd caught a ferry that went to the furthest most island from the main island of Venice. Burano it was called and it took almost an hour !!!

What seemed like a curse turned out to be a blessing, as this island was a little haven with a buzz zing canal life, beautifully coloured houses and it's own leaning tower.

I took Tommi's advice and had some wine with my pizza lunch and after strolling around some more caught a ferry back a different way via the famous island of Merano - famous for its glass.

I met a friendly Dutch guy on this trip, who gave me some hints as to where to visit in Venice.

When I returned though, apart from taking the slow ride down the main canal, I spent much of what was left of the afternoon and early evening wandering around. Taking in the shops, the streets, the gondolas and the sunset. It was great.

 A pasta tea in another restaurant on the way and by the time I returned back, I was almost ready for bed. A great day of exploring and by the time I'd finished I felt reasonably confident that if/when I got lost in Venice, I could find my way out.


Fantastic place - lovely day.

Day 22 - Camino 11 : Pedrouzo - Santiago de Compostela and Italy - Day 1 Venice

Sunrise at Lavacolla

Started very early - up at 5:45.  Breakfast across the road at 6. On the road at 6:20. Louis and I had ambitions of making it to Santiago cathedral at 11 to give us time to get settled before 12 o'clock mass. This meant 20km in 4 and a half hours without much of a break.

Along the way, walking in the dark, we were joined by a guy who walked the same pace as us. He walked along side of us for half an hour or so ... without saying a word. It was a strange sensation.

Aforementioned , half way mark

At the half way mark, we bumped into Tabea1 and Kathy from St Loius in the US. They had left one hour earlier than us so that we could enter Santiago together. One of the Camino beatitudes says this is important. I'll have to look it up. It did make it special, I must admit and an experience Andy later said he regretted missing out on.

Getting there

About 5kms out I met Penelope Cummings and her partner John. I had heard people meeting people they knew from home on the trip but I hadn't met any Tasmanians thus far, let alone people who lived next to my work place... Whose boys I had taught... They had travelled the whole Camino and were on the middle of a similar European trip to me, only precisely three times as long.

with Penelope and John
Launceston pilgrims

Typing on the very fast train to Florenze at the moment. 220kms an hour and first class to boot ... if you don't mind.

The arrival into Santiago was made more significant by the company who had travelled a lot further than me, however I was proud of my achievement and proudly had photos taken in the square where many people sat looking at the Cathedral (that looked a bit like a construction site)  reflecting on what they had done.

Monte del Gozo (Mount of Joy)
Pilgrim's Monument

I must admit, I felt sad it was all over and just as sad I hadn't allowed myself time to enjoy the end. I only had 4 hours in Santiago before catching a bus to the airport.

The Construction site - i mean - the Cathedral

I was told the cathedral no longer allowed bags but the post office had a place to store them for a while. Well after queuing for 20 min and being next in line I had to abandon that plan as another American, Kathy, who was sharing the line with me, said they barred the church doors 5 min before the start of mass. And she always seemed to know an awful lot. So I soon followed her lead and tried desperately to get in late ...  with my backpack. I lost Kathy, as she was hugging a long-lost pilgrim and I sneaked into the side of the church, in amongst a whole group of guards in uniform. I made it .... And no one else had their bags. So I found a nook to lean my bag up against and innocently stood in front of it.

Mass was in Spanish again of course and I must admit I was getting used to it. The climactic swinging of the incense caused quite a stir amongst the camera-laden pilgrims ... which of course was all of them. It was hard to resist the opportunity to hide behind a camera but rather live in the moment. Which of course I didn't do ... Resist that is. The video is not good though as I didn't lower myself to get in a good position. It did give me the opportunity to wander a little a way from my bag.

With Andy at the end

After mass, I was told the queue yesterday for getting the document to prove you had walked the Camino - known as your compostela - took two and a half hours. I had 2 before the bus. So I left my friends to get their lunch, I went with rumbling tummy to find the place. It was here that I ran into Andy again. He was about twenty people in front of me... So I jumped the queue a little and spent the next hour with Andy catching up on the last few days. It was great to see him.

Lunch at the side of the Cathedral
It looked more appealing from here too -
Too bad I didn't get the time to enjoy it

I didn't get the personalised certificate with the starting place and number of kms walked written on it because I felt I'd sold myself short a bit by not doing the whole thing. Next time, I will hopefully walk with my wife Jane - who sounds keen from talking to her over the last 10 days - and we will do the whole thing.

Lunch was a beer and an undelivered sandwich ... Sad and brief goodbyes and rushing off for stage 3 of this adventure ... Feeling torn and raw and probably a bit smelly.

The bus, two planes and a shuttle bus to Venice all went by pretty smoothly. Perhaps I was a bit self conscious of the fact I had walked 20+ kms and been up since before 6 without a shower, but on one of the planes, I forget which one, a tattooed lady and her teenage son moved from next to me up to spare seats a few seats up as the plane was leaving the terminal. Her husband was up there of course but all of a sudden I had three seats to myself. I could look at Spain as the sun set from a window seat.

A canal I presume
At this time of night - hard to say

I arrived at Venice after 11 and had a 3km walk to my flat with just this map below and a phone running out of power. Miraculously I made it but had no instructions on how to get in. Lucky for me an Irish bloke was still up and answered the door when I knocked. A bed at last. I fell into it blissfully.

Day 21 - Camino 10 - Melide - Pedrouzo

Writing this in Venice so a bit of a strain remembering.

Leaving Melide before dawn.

Started the day pre-dawn again and spent some time getting to know Tabea 2. A German medical student who had travelled far and knew more than six languages!

Also chatted to Elysia a speech therapist from Northern Italy. Planned where to meet Louis so neither of stressed through the day. And met up for lunch 20 kms on the road. This was going to be a 34km day.

Typical Pilgrim's Meal Menu - taken at Ribadiso

Had a good chat to Kideisha along this part of the journey and learnt more about art, photography and getting in touch with her aboriginal roots. She was in the middle of quite a bit of meandering around the world.

Also learning about Tabea1 who told me about how she had found God in a sunrise sometime along the Camino. A German engineering student and good friend of Louis.

One of the few scenery shots taken this day -
Talking too much me - also wanting to be a bit more present.

I'm writing now outside the San Zaccaria ferry stop, after a quick breakfast in Venice, Wednesday morning. Just to get context.

So we were walking and talking all day long and the kms were rolling by. We met one bloke from outside Adelaide who had brought his two kids aged 7 and 10 along with his wife and mother-in-law on the last 100 kms. A mighty fine effort. The boy had celebrated his birthday on the second of his trip. He had a sign on the back of his backpack and so had many people talking to Jim that day. The 7 year old had a small pack as well with a large stuffed giraffe named Raffey sticking out the back.

Went to see where Andy was staying in Arua 2 kms short of our destination Pedrouzo, but he wasn't there so we moved on. I realised I'd left my walking stick I haad bought on day 3, back at that hotel, so I went back for it, thinking I'd catch up easy enough. On my way back,  I was about to pass this Brazilian lady who was walking very slowly until I turned and looked at her. She looked just like my sister Liz. With the addition of a few years, pink lipstick and pink hair. So I started chatting to her- her name was Sandra and she spoke just as much English as I did Portuguese - next to nothing. But we had fun trying to communicate. We were so engrossed in this "conversation" that we missed the turn off to Pedrouzo. We walked another 2 kms along the road until we finally stopped. We were about to head back on the path to look and a guy on a tractor came along the path. We both tried to ask him for directions in a poor attempt at Spanish and he responded in perfect English. He was English ... posing as a Spanish farmer.

with Sandra from Brazil

On the way back, I said the word "maybe" and she said something about "Janis Joplin". When I questioned her about what she said, she said "folk music" then with encouragement she sang the song she was thinking of about a Mercedes Benz. I remembered bits of the song. We sang together. I tried my luck and said Bob Dylan and she began "Blowing in the Wind."  In the end we so busy singing Bob Dylan songs together and laughing we got a little lost again. It all ended up fine though and we parted ways in town over an hour later than we should have been there.

It was going to be our longest day but I had made it a bit longer than anticipated. 39km day I calculated.      

Tea was average but the sleep was good at a modern but weird albergue that had a urinal outside the male toilet and shower area.  In the open????

Day 20 - Camino 9 - Ligonde - Melide - Oct 1

I'm tired tonight so I'll try to be brief. Today I left in the dark! I didn't think I would do this but I'm cutting things a bit fine at the end of my pilgrimage so I need to practice getting up early. Also Louis and I missed the Aubergue we wanted yesterday so we believed if we made it to our town early we'd have a choice.

After 50 min we had breakfast on the road at Portos. Then when dawn hit the cameras were out.

I was trying to get the perfect shot of pilgrims walking on the track.

This was Louis

I reckon this was my best one for today

It was mist most of the morning. I lost Louis somewhere around Casanova and didn't meet up again until just before Melide - our agreed finishing place.





I walked 22.8 kms today but getting ready for a 34 km day tomorrow to allow ourselves not 20 or so to get to Santiago before 11 am. Then I'll be able to get my final stamp, certificate and still have time to go to 12 o'clock mass in the cathedral. A bit forced I know,  but hopefully do-able, without always being in a rush.








Melide was having an imitation Oktoberfest in the park opposite our auberge, so we both had a metre long sausage! and a beer for lunch then we explored the town.

Finally met up with Louis' German friend Tabea again and hopefully she will join us tomorrow.



We went for tea down the road to try what we really came for in this town - Pulpo - ie. octopus - they are famous for it. It was indeed tasty but the tentacles were a bit off putting.

The Doggies winning the grand final today was exciting to hear at 10:30 morning tea - weird in itself - and I did communicate with a few people back home about this - no one I met today knew anything about it.


 

Met two other interesting people over dinner last night who are here again today: Steven, an Hawaiian submarine pilot - taking a break from work to work out his future. Marita, a Peruvian woman living in Madrid, also looking for her future path. It seems common amongst any people I speak to along the way. Looking for answers about their lives and their futures.



Many on today's path have started in Sarria which is only 100km from Santiago. It is the shortest distance you can do to receive the official document at the end saying you have been on the camino. It seems a bit easy now - 100 km - but when I was planning this trip 100km sounded like a lot.